The Dalager Experiment: 24 Hours in Johor Bahru

Jacob and I, joined by our friend Zach, escaped north of the border this weekend, the Johor Bahru, the Malaysian city just across the Johor Straits. Yap Ling, a musician friend that Jacob originally met when he lived in Sabah, was there with the Malaysian youth orchestra with whom he works, and invited us to come up and meet him for dinner. So on Saturday afternoon, we took a few MRT and bus trips across the causeway, passed through Singapore emigration and Malaysian immigration (complete with fore-finger printing), and arrived in the pouring rain.

Johor tends to be perceived as much more dangerous than Singapore, though to be honest, probably most places are! However, we found everyone helpful and had no issues whatsoever - in fact, we were pretty overwhelmed by some of the hospitality we received.

Our first task was to locate Jomi Homestay, where Jacob and I had booked a room for less than US$15, and Zach really scored with a bed in the common room for under US$5. Not luxurious, but I didn't see any bugs, and I think we all got at least a little sleep so...win!

The entrance to Jomi Homestay - and the breakfast nook.

Our delux private room - note the snowmen on the curtain!

Just laughing with the girls!

We then met up with Ling at the hotel where him and the orchestra were staying. The youth orchestra is completely sponsored by the Malaysian government and travels throughout the different Malaysian states giving concerts. Neat program! We came just as they were sitting down to dinner at the hotel, and we were immediately asked to join them. The buffet included fried baby squid (love!) and Ais Kecang, a dessert made of shaved ice topped with your choice of various syrups, jelly/jello cubes, lychees, red beans and sweet corn. Um...what? I can't say I was a fan, though looking at the dish below, how could you not want it?

Can you guess which is Ling and which is Zach?

Ais kacang - YUM-O!

On short notice, the youth orchestra had been asked to go north to the town of Batu Pahat to perform at an Arts Festival. Again, we were invited to come along, so we hopped in the van (following the kid's bus) and began the trek north. The 'hour+' trip actually ended up taking more like 2.5 hours, but we were lucky - on the way, we got to watch the movie 'Arena' - with a character called 'Death Dealer,' at least 10 brutal fights to the death, and Samuel L. Jackson, what's NOT to love?

We arrived at Batu Pahat and were treated to a really fantastic concert of cultural music and dance. The whole concert was so well coordinated - the lighting, sound, and performances were so enjoyable. I think our favorite was the little boy who sang two songs, much to the delight of all the middle-aged women. We heard later that he had won last year's Malaysia's Youth Idol!

Unfortunately, the Youth Orchestra had been invited to play before the arts concert, not after, so that didn't end up working out. However, we all got a great show, and then the three of us were invited to come eat with some of the VIPs in attendance - some local leaders and the Minister of Culture. So we downed hospitality meal #2! Oofda.

The van ride home was a little trying for me - the road in Malaysia are not as smooth as could be wished and the movie - the Expendables - wasn't helping me either. But fortunately we made it back without any unpleasantness! We thanked Ling and caught a taxi back to Jomi, where we hit the hay - and slept as best we could between some rather rude frogs outside our window, and a blaring radio in one of the other rooms!

In the morning, we rose late and sat out drinking tea and talking to a man we dubbed Canada Bob, a retired Canadian man who has been traveling for the last few years and plans to spend another 18 months of so in South East Asia - cool nomad.

We then walked a ways to the city center, which was pretty sleepy on a Sunday morning. We ate lunch at one of the few open restaurants before walking around and checking out a Mosque, a Sikh Temple and a Hindu Temple. So neat to see these all within blocks of each other. We found the Bazar, which was in full preparation mode for Deepavali (Diwali), the Indian festival coming up next week. After more strolling and some sunburn, we made our way back to the bus terminal and (after waiting an oddly long time for a bus) returned to Singapore. Our new city is great in so many ways, but Singapore has been so cleaned up and re- and re-rebuilt that sometimes it can feel a bit sterile. It was fun to get out for a day and see some different sites, meet some new people, and have a bit of an adventure.

This artwork is made out of little grains or sand/rice/rock - painstakingly made and stunning! And it was just in a mall - we saw others as well. They are celebrating Deepavali.