Thursday, June 27, 2013

Pink Dot

If you know me, it will come as no surprise to you that the news about the Supreme Court overruling DOMA sent me into a happy dance in my kitchen two nights ago. In the wake of the Court's evisceration of the Voting Rights Act, I was nervously awaiting the DOMA and Prop 8 rulings - and I'm sure many of you were too.
Obviously, neither of these rulings finishes the job of achieving marriage equality or an end to discrimination on the basis of sexual orientation. But DOMA was (was!) a major roadblock on the road towards national marriage equality. And now it isn't.
To all of you who have fought - through protests, phone calls, and by talking to your family and friends about the importance of this issue - thank you. Equality enhances the rights of all, and I truly feel that Jacob's and my marriage benefits from this ruling as well. The Federal benefits we receive as a married couple are now available to (at least some of) our friends who were previously denied them - and that is good.

Of course, this is all in the United States. Which is not where I'm living.

So what about Singapore? Marriage equality happening here any time soon?

No.

Ok - before I begin, I want to add this caveat: I'm not Singaporean, I haven't lived in the country very long, and I know very little about the history of LGBT rights or legislation in this country. So this is what I've learned through conversation and brief searches on the internet. (And, hey, because I LOVE my employment visa, I'll add that I recognize that Singapore is sovereign and Singaporean citizens get to decide these matters, not upstart expats like me. Hope that covers it, thanks!)

Here is a summary from Wikipedia, outlining Singapore's stance on homosexuality and homosexual individuals:
Same-sex sexual activity legalYes for female,
No for male
Equal age of consentYes for female
Laws offering protection for homosexuality in employmentNo
Laws offering protection for homosexuality in the provision of goods and servicesNo
Laws offering protection for homosexuality in all other areas (incl. indirect discrimination, "hate speech")No
Same-sex civil union(s)No
Recognition of same-sex couplesNo
Adoption by same-sex couplesNo
Gays allowed to serve in the militaryYes/No
Right to change legal genderYes                            

Men cannot legally engage in sexual activities, or 'acts of gross indecency' with other men. This crime is punishable by up to 2 years in prison. Interestingly, this law does not apply to lesbian women, which is a bit baffling. One explanation I've heard is that it is more a denial of the idea that lesbian exist, or that these acts take place - I don't know if it is true, but it is interesting. I have also heard that these laws are rarely enforced nowadays. This sounds quite similar to laws that were in place in many States until recently (and may still exist in some places on a county level? Not sure on this). Our policeman friend here in Singapore did mention that in previous decades these laws were enforced, to the point of undercover police officers baiting potentially gay men and then busting them. (That's an anecdotal story - I don't have any evidence backing that up. In case you can't tell, I'm trying to stick to the facts and not misrepresent anything!)

Servicemen can be demoted, classified as medically unfit, punished, and outed to their parents if they are discovered to be gay or 'effeminate.'

Openly gay men (and presumably women, though I didn't see that specifically written) can hold some civil service (government) jobs, though they are barred from holding 'sensitive positions,' whichever those are.
I do find it interesting that Singaporeans have the legal right to change gender.

But as we know, outlawing something - especially people! - does not make them disappear. It may send them underground, but of course there are homosexual individuals in Singapore.

There is also a growing movement aimed at changing the tide. Pink Dot - a play on the term 'Red Dot' often used to refer to Singapore, which shows up as just a tiny dot on maps - is: "a non-profit movement started by a group of individuals who care deeply about the place that LGBT Singaporeans call home. It is a group for everyone, straight and gay, who support the belief that everyone deserves the freedom to love. With openness and acceptance, we hope to bring LGBT Singaporeans closer to their family and friends." More simply put, Pink Dot supports the freedom to love.

Each year, Pink Dot holds an 'event' - NOT a protest, but a legally sanctioned event at Hong Lim Park, which is the area the city has designated for free speech. Pink Dot 2013 is coming up this weekend - though sadly, we'll be out of town.  Pink Dot encourages anyone and everyone to come down to the park to mingle, eat, hang out - and wear pink for the symbolic formation of the Pink Dot. The event began in 2009 with 4,000 supporters - and was attended by more than 15,000 people in 2012. Here's hoping 2013's Pink Dot continues that growth!

And 2012 wasn't even included in this series - my guess is because it was too big for one photo!
According to our friends Garrett and Mara, it was pretty awesome to watch in 2012. Yes - I deliberately say 'watch,' as in 'watch but not participate.' You see, Hong Lim Park's extension of protected free speech only goes so far as to cover citizens and permanent residents. Jacob and I are here at the pleasure of the Singaporean government, and we really value our green Employment Passes, so we play by the rules. We are forbidden from taking part in protests or any sort of agitation (as I'd put it). On their website though, Pink Dot includes a section for foreigners, explaining what we can and cannot do, how we can and can not participate - helpful!

In perusing Pink Dot's website, I am most struck by the emphasis on family values. Singapore is a conservative society that places a strong emphasis on the family unit. Pink Dot provides this helpful and, in my opinion, beautiful explanation in their Q&A section - one that reminds me of some aspects of the DOMA ruling handed down yesterday.

Q: Does this event go against my pro-family beliefs?
A: This is a pro-family event. LGBT individuals have got families too! However, familial relationships often get compromised due to a lack of understanding. Through this event, we hope to get people thinking about the issues commonly faced by the LGBT community, both inside and outside of their families – issues that many Singaporeans take for granted. We believe that an event like this can play an important part in promoting understanding and unity amongst family and friends.

LGBT individuals have got families too! And recognizing their relationships as valid and important can strengthen communities. Singapore has not had the same national discussion as the U.S., and the sea-change we've seen in America in the past decade has not been seen here. But there are individuals taking up the cause - and that is the start.

Want to feel even more uplifted? Watch Macklemore & Lewis' Same Love:





Wednesday, June 19, 2013

SMOG* BLOG

*Technically, I guess it is being called 'haze,' but haze doesn't rhyme with blog.

And no rain til Sunday...
Singapore has been enveloped in a dense haze of smoke, blowing over from Sumatra, where farmers are using slash-and-burn techniques to clear land for oil palm plantations.

It is nasty. It is dusty and smokey to breathe, stings your eyes, and is generally gross. It is unpleasant for everyone, but I can only imagine how difficult this is on people with respiratory problems (like the heart failure patients in one of our ongoing studies, for is instance). The country is selling out of the n95 masks (the face masks that actually filters the air), and I'd guess that this morning somewhere between 10-25% of the commuting population was wearing a mask. Currently, visibility is reported to be 0.5km - little more than a quarter mile. There are several tall building that I can normally see from my office window, and they aren't shrouded in haze - they're gone. It is so hazy, you can actually look at the sun without hurting your eyes (ok, probably not the best idea) - it looks more like an intense orange moon than our bright yellow sun.

My coworkers and I have begun compulsively checking the National Environmental Agency's hourly updates of the Pollutant Standard Index (PSI). We even got a little Hi-Lo game going on, betting on the next hourly report (what did we say, Karyn? Winner gets a face mask?) Yesterday afternoon we were up around the 170s, and then it dipped down a bit. Then last night at 9pm the reading rocketed up to 290, then 321 at 10pm. Yep, we hit the dark read, highest-level-on-the-scale 'HAZARDOUS' mark. That set a new record for Singapore. Fabulous. For your reference:






Also for your reference: Beijing's PSI is currently 105 (although looks like yesterday it fluctuated between 100 - 180)

View from Karyn's apartment. It is hard to capture,
but imagine that, if not for the haze,
it'd be blue skies and sunshine.
It is a frustrating situation - because what can be done? It seems like like there is a lot of frustration with the government for not doing more, but what can you do about weather patterns? Obviously, the solution is to stop the burning in Indonesia, but that is difficult on a practical level and dicey on a political level. Singapore is complaining to Indonesia, imploring them to enforce the laws against massive burning. Indonesia points the finger back, reminding us that much of the industry is backed by Singaporean and Malaysian companies and investments. Ah, tricky. I feel like I'm back in my 'Global Environmental Politics' course - can you say trans-boundary pollution problem?

Yuck!
(No credit for this picture, I took this from google)


In the mean time, everyone is cautioned to limit outdoor activity (guess I won't be running this week!), and I've heard that many companies (especially government companies) are limiting outdoor work and issuing masks to workers, etc. The last time the haze was near this level (1997) there were school and work closings. I had my fingers crossed for a smog day today, but no dice!

So that's what's happening here - and it is basically all anyone can talk about. I've lived in some regions with pretty crazy weather, but I don't think I've ever experienced pollution as weather. This week-long dose of what many cities deal with all the time is startling - and depressing. And a reminder that yes, humans are most definitely contributing to climate change. With pollution like this, how could we not?!
Silver-lining to this haze? At least this pollution is mostly from burning wood (which is not good), and not from even more deadly chemicals. And at least it will end - hopefully soon!





Sunday, June 16, 2013

Snapshots

Funny - and slightly disturbing - glimpses into life in Singapore


IF THEY BREED, YOU WILL BLEED.
I'm not sure a public service announcement has ever sounded so much like a tag-line for a horror movie! Singapore's National Environmental Agency (NEA) works continuously to prevent dengue outbreaks - including house to house mosquito inspections (yes, they can fine you for breeding mozzies)! They have several campaign slogans - not all as bone-chilling as the one above. I like 'Do the Mozzie Wipe-Out!' because I like to imagine there is a dance that goes with it.

Yesterday entailed a big shopping trip to FairPrice. We've been missing some of our usual fare, and have decided to increase our food budget just a bit in order to enjoy some of what we've been craving. Despite living here for 9 months, I am still occasionally floored by a high price on an unexpected item - like $5.20 for a 12 oz bag of frozen spinach?! Seriously people? I walked away...then went back and got it. We'll see if it brings $5.20 of joy and nutrition into our meals - and if not, they can keep their outrageously priced greens!

 Another great PSA! Jacob snapped a photo of this poster a few weeks ago. I love the 'or any combination of the above' part! Hey, they're leaving their options open.

Here is Jacob meeting (a cardboard cut out of) his hero, Pornsak! Pornsak (yes, his real name) is a Thai celebrity, known originally for his cooking show (I think?), who shows up in all sorts of MRT ads. Here he is touting Mama Lemon dish soap outside the Thai restaurant he founded - Porn's Sexy Thai Food! You can follow this link to their website: http://www.porns.com.sg/ And yes, I promise that is a safe link!
For the record, I believe Porn means 'blessing' in Thai - but given the restaurant is 2 years old, they knew what they were doing with that name!

Oh Singapore, the little ways you make me smile.


Monday, June 10, 2013

Beautiful Bali (Part 2)

Now back to this vacation, already in process...

Ubud, Friday

We stayed at the lovely Alas Petulu Cottages in a two-story villa (for an incredible $80 a night for all of us - including breakfast!). The hotel was only 5 minutes from the main road and I don't think I saw a single other hotel guest. In addition, the hotel would arrange for free transport within the town - such service!
Breakfast on our porch - fruit, eggs, toast, tea & coffee.
View from our porch.
Swimming pool - upper level
Our 'villa'
Swimming pool, lower level. The boys may or may not
have jumped from one to the other...


Our room and balcony



Alters/shrines at our hotel - it is family owned and in the evening we saw
a woman taking offerings and incense to each shrine.


Doorways seemed very important in Bali - most homes had some
sort of ornate entry way, and I never grew tired of
driving past them in all their variety.
On Friday we went whitewater rafting down the Ayu River with our guide, Madi. First, we took an hour drive to get there on increasingly disconcerting roads - but through some really beautiful scenery!





Our rafting started with a long downhill climb to reach the river - maybe the most nerve-wracking part!



Fashionable AND functional...
None of us had ever rafted before, but fortunately our guide was skilled enough that we didn't have to do much - paddle sometimes, but mostly just grab the ropes when he told us to! Occasionally he'd grab onto Anna's or my life jackets while we were going over the rapid - and I didn't know whether to be comforted because he was making sure I wouldn't fall out or worried because he thought there was a chance I might fall! It was a really lovely trip down the river, with plenty of time to gaze around in awe.
Halfway through we stopped off at a refreshment spot - Anna & Erich split a coconut, and Jacob and I indulged in some (pricey!) Bintang...because when are we going to sit and drink a cold beer in a river valley in the middle of Bali again?



As we neared the end of the trip, past the final rapids, Madi said we could jump out and swim, so Jacob and I took the plunge. It was the most incredible lazy river I've been in! The water was so swift and since we had life jackets, we just floated along on our backs in the glorious sunshine. Amazing.
After rafting and lunch at the finish station (and another long climb, this time up from the river), we got dropped off at the Sacred Monkey Forest. Guess what we saw?!




If you can't see, that baby monkey is
climbing the up the other
monkey's tail like a rope!



MONKEYS!




















Sacred Monkey Forest Temple
Monkey on my back!!




The monkey tried to take Anna's water bottle - and then succeeded in pulling Jacob's earring out! Really, Jacob has the worst luck with monkeys - I can't believe he goes anywhere near them anymore! Fortunately no harm was done, and monkey dropped the earring in favor of some pieces of coconut.


We hiked our way up from the Monkey Forest back into Ubud - quite a trek (looked shorter on the map!). Fortunately as we were about to give out, we arrived at Gelato Secrets and revived ourselves - enough to make it to Ibu Oka, a restaurant famous for its suckling pig! We ordered two servings of just the pork - and then ordered one more! Hey, it's a vacation!  
I really like all the activity going on in the painting,
and all the detailed work. He also had much larger
paintings with perhaps hundreds of character in them.
We headed back to the hotel to relax, swim and nap - and on the way Jacob and I got sidetracked by a small shop selling paintings. We ended up buying a really beautiful painting of the Barong & Kris story, and even got to meet the artist, Nyoman. We even got to see a bit of his studio - which we suspect was also where they lived. I was torn between amazement at his work and skill and sadness over the mean conditions in which he and his wife lived and worked. I hope they will continue to get many interested customers and much appreciation for his work.
For dinner we went to the Dirty Duck (Bebek Bengil in Indonesian) and ate deep fried duck and a chicken salad served in a pineapple, while sitting on pillows around the low table in a lovely secluded gazebo - sweet!




Where: Sanur
What: Relaxation
Accommodations: Puri Santrian Beach Club

Saturday morning we packed up bright and early to be ready for our 7:30am ride to Penang Bai for a morning of scuba & snorkeling. It was a bit of a long ride to get there, but such a beautiful day for it. We dove out of a company called WaterWorxx, and they were really great - were all ready with our gear and were friendly and professional (all reassuring things when you're going diving!)



Never been out in an outrigger boat like this before!


Rocking the wetsuits - glad they were full suits with boots too, because the water was cold!


Heading out to Blue Lagoon - a short ride from the shore.



Jacob and I had a great time diving - after a bit of a disconcerting dive in Phuket, it was great to have a calm, clear environment to dive in. We had our own personal dive guide and hardly saw any other divers, so it was mostly just the 3 of us. The coolest past was seeing a white tipped shark, who hovered nearby for a moment before slowly swimming off, giving us plenty of time to watch him. We also saw some funny looking eels, a large ray, and a myriad of other fish in all sorts of neon colors. While we dove, Anna & Erich snorkeled in a nearby area and saw lots of bright fish and coral too.


The travelers


Little brothers never change.
We then got a ride to our hotel in Sanur, a sleepier part of Bali on the east side known for its beautiful beaches and luxury hotels. We stayed at Puri Santrian, which was awesome and really reasonably priced for a 4-star beach resort! We got in a little pool time, then enjoyed happy hour cocktails on the beach.



We went to The Tropical for dinner, where Erich & Anna split an epic seafood platter. We finished off with a belated birthday celebration with a fruit platter - Happy Birthday!







View from our balcony - that's the private, no kids allowed Santrian Club pool - oooooh. Now, I like kids, but that was kind of awesome.
Our room
The balcony :)
Our final day in Bali was all about relaxation. We slept in, hung out by the beach and the private pool, read and napped. We ate lunch at a nearby cafe, then Jacob, Anna & I went for massages - at a small spa located in the back room of a convenience store? Sounds sketchier than it was though, and the massages were quite enjoyable. And much more affordable than the ones offered at the spa at our hotel! It rained in the afternoon, so it was a bit cooler by the time we got to Happy Hour, but that did not deter us from the swim-up pool bar!
Happy Hour = Happy Anna
Had the place to ourselves!
We finished our trip with dinner at the Cat & Fiddle - a nearby Irish Pub, complete with an Irish Folk band, the Leprechauns! And considering this band was composed entirely of musicians of southeast Asian heritage, we were pretty impressed by their rendition of Danny Boy and other Irish classics. (Full disclosure: we requested Danny Boy. Fuller disclosure: Anna requested Danny Boy.)

Monday morning came too soon, as did our 4am pick-up by Ketut, but we made our way to the airport and back to Singapore - and in my case, directly to work! Worth it though, for such a fantastic trip! I'm already trying to figure out when we can make our way back to Bali - I understand why so many people go back to Bali again and again. I don't think you grow tired of it easily!

Fortunately, the end of our vacation was not the end of our visit with Anna & Erich, who were able to spend another week with us in Singapore...