Special Administrative Regions of the People's Republic of China

So Hannah has been the Atlas of blogging for the past 8 months or so, carrying all of the weight of the the Dalager Experiment's content and publicity. But now it's time that I pull my act together and contribute to the blog society once again, too. So here's rare post from me, Jacob Dalager.

While Hannah was off doing her solo adventure in Melaka, I went to Hong Kong and Macau for a 3-day weekend. Hong Kong and Macau are "Special Administrative Regions" of China that have recently been handed over from their colonizers, England and Portugal, respectively. They are islands and loosely connected peninsulas off the southern coast of China. The "SAR" status means that they are relatively independent. Each has their own government and currency, separate from mainland China. But gradually, they will be more and more integrated with mainland China. Hopefully they will never lose their unique qualities and charm though.

The purpose of my visit was more business than pleasure, so that's why Hannah and I opted to part ways for this trip. There are three professional orchestras there: the Hong Kong Sinfonietta, the Hong Kong Philharmonic, and the Macau Orchestra. And Southeast Asia (and extending to southern China in this case) being a very small professional brass playing community, I thought it would be wise to meet some of the musicians in these groups, take some lessons, hear some concerts, and do some general "networking." Hey, maybe one of these groups will need a substitute or extra trumpet sometime, and I'm cheaper to fly in than someone from the US, Australia or Europe.

So I took the airport express train in to Hong Kong on Thursday night, April 25th, and immediately felt more like I was in New York City than in China. I checked in to the Apple Hostel, located in the Chungking Mansions, one of the most interesting places I've been in Hong Kong. It's an old block of buildings designated for residential use and about 4,000 people live there. Despite this, there are still many, many hostels, businesses, stores, money changers, and restaurants. An estimated 120 different nationalities live there, predominantly South Asian, Arab, and African immigrants, an interesting combination in the heart of Hong Kong's luxury shopping district. There are a lot of other curious things about the place, too, such as "20 percent of the mobile phones recently in use in sub-Saharan Africa had passed through Chungking Mansions at some point." It's a crazy place with lots of people trying to sell you fake Rolex's, chicken tikka, and hostel rooms. My room was dirt cheap (for Hong Kong prices anyways), and adequate.

View from the Star Ferry

Bed and practice room; all a boy needs

The first night I met up with one of the trumpet players from the Hong Kong Sinfonietta for dinner at a Vietnamese placee. He was very friendly and we had a good time. I spent most of my spare time practicing in my room with a mute in. Boring, I know, but I had an audition coming up. Friday, I practiced a bit more, explored the giant music shop down the street, and then met some the members of the Hong Kong Philharmonic for lessons. They were really good teachers and very kind as well. Then I went to their performance of Dvorak's Second Cello Concerto and Brahms 2. It was a really great performance. And I ended the night by taking the Star Ferry back across the harbor for a beer on the docks with some orchestra members.

Post concert beer by the docks

Macau is a very interesting place. It's only an hour-long ferry ride from Hong Kong (ferries run 24-7 to help gamblers get there). It looks like you've stepped in to Lisbon, but everything is written in Chinese. It was an old Portuguese colony, and they did a lot of work to make it look like home. Unlike pretty much anywhere else in this part of the world, there are actually a lot of big, old churches everywhere. The Jesuits came here and built a ton them starting even almost 500 years ago. The other side of Macau, is that it is the "Las Vegas of the East." There are dozens of casinos that make billions and billions off of all the (mainly Chinese) gamblers that come in (casinos are not allowed in mainland China or Hong Kong, so they all come here for the action). These two faces of Macau do not intersect though (casinos along the coast, and old buildings are around the city square more inland), so I was able to enjoy the European feel without the casinos' din. I met up with the hilarious French principal trumpet from the Macau Orchestra. We had lunch at a delicious hole-in-the-wall Thai restaurant. And then we went back to the little school where he teaches a little bit for a lesson. Then I had some extra time so I explored some of the old churches of Macau. Then it was off for more networking over Chinese dumplings with the 2nd trumpet of the orchestra. I enjoyed their free concert of Kodaly, Wagner, and more Brahms at yet another church in Macau. I finished the evening with a martini at a very nice bar with some of the orchestra and conductor. I was also surprised to run in to the the tubist and one of the bassoonists from the Singapore Symphony in Macau, who were subbing in for the concert.

Macau City Square

Wait, where am I?

The ruins of St. Paul's Cathedral. If you look close there are both gargoyles, saints, and Chinese dragons on the facade.

Seriously, where am I?

Wait, it looks like Europe, but I can't read the signs...

Huh?

Seriously now, this is China??

Macau Orchestra post-concert hang

My last day before my flight, I had do to something touristy in Hong Kong. The famous "Big Buddha" is on the same island as the airport, so that seemed to make sense to check out. It's the world's largest seated Buddha. And I can't help but wonder that if he just stood up, would he be the biggest Buddha of them all? He's made of bronze and sits on top of a giant hill on Lantau Island near a couple of monasteries. The best way to get to it is via cable car. It's often very cloudy and drizzly in Hong Kong (no wonder the British wanted to colonize it!), but the view was still great. Then it was back the airport and home before teaching early on Monday morning. It was a great trip but it was great to get back and see Hannah again, too.

Running Playlist - Top Fifteen

The other day I was finishing a hard run and my very favorite running song came on, giving me the boost I needed to get home. I reflected on how the perfect songs always seem to come on at just the right moment (though I guess I usually skip songs when I'm not feeling them, so that could be part of it!). While my 'wurkout' playlist gets mixed up frequently, a few songs always make the cut. My music tastes and my specific preferences for running music span many genres and as a whole, make up one pretty wacky playlist. So I thought I'd share with you my Top Fifteen Running Songs - and invite you to tell me yours too! I'm always looking for a sweet new beat to get me up that hill. (Literally 'that' hill - the one hill anywhere near my house on this flat, flat island.

(This was going to be a Top Ten list, but I couldn't narrow it down. Well, I mean, I guess you can just look at the Top Ten, but I had to mention the other 5 too!)

These songs make the list for a variety of reasons. Some make me feel good, some have great beats, some have running-related lyrics, and some are just hilarious.

For your convenience, I have kindly linked to YouTube videos of the songs where possible! Please note, not all are suitable for children or sensitive listeners.

15. Saturday Night - Ozomatli: Great, great beat! Funky, Latin beat with fun horn lines, and if you listen closely, you'll here snippets of Charlie Brown saying 'I got a rock!'

14. Big Girl (You Are Beautiful) - Mika: Now, I've seen pictures of myself running, and it's not exactly pretty! Bright red cheeks, soaked tee-shirt, mouth hanging slightly ajar as I gasp for air. But when I listen to this song, I'm like, 'heck yeah I am beautiful!' and I kick it up a notch.

13. Hey Ya - Outkast: The moment this song comes on, you'll be shaking it like a Polaroid picture fo sho. When you're running it is good to shake out your arms and make sure you aren't running stiffly - so this is the perfect song to remind you to loosen up and run relaxed.

12. Go the Distance - Hercules (Disney) This songs dates back to my high school cross country days, when Carolyn Auchter and I would get pumped up for races by listening to Disney music!

11. Change (Halleluia) - Taylor Swift: This is a song about persevering despite obstacles and getting stronger with time, both good things to remember when you're running. And I just straight up like Taylor Swift.

10. Baby Got Back - Sir Mix-A-Lot: YES! Vulgar but fantastic. You'll find yourself working it while you run! Particularly enjoy the opening dialogue!

9. I Feel the Earth Move - Carole King: I love Carole King and this is one of her more rocking songs. You'll feel the earth move under your feet - and not because of some guy, but because you're making it happen!

8. Livin' on a Prayer - Bon Jovi: Best to listen to when you're at least halfway through your run (so that the 'halfway there' lyrics are encouraging instead of disheartening), this epic love story of Tommy and Gina will make you feel awesome. And when you get to the key change near the end, just try not to throw your hands in the air and sing along!

7. Don't Stop til you Get Enough - Michael Jackson: Gotta have some MJ in here. This song tells you over and over not to stop, which is great encouragement! Also appreciate all the MJ 'wooooos!'

6. Wavin' Flag - K'naan: This is a personal favorite of mine because it reminds me of my South Africa YAGMs and of the World Cup, but it also has a brilliant message. "When I get older, I will be stronger, they'll call me freedom, just like a wavin' flag!"

5. Toxic - Britney: If you don't have Britney on your playlist, what's wrong with you? Besides being hilarious and high energy, you can remind yourself of this fact: "If Britney can make it through 2007, I can make it through this run."

4. Gangnam Style - Psy: This song is 100% worth the hype! Try running to it - see if you don't end up doing the horsey dance just a bit. Also, when I listen to this, I feel like all the runners near me would approve if they could hear it. And I believe that if I brought speakers and played it out loud, my life would become a musical for a few minutes, and everyone on the street would break out in perfectly-choreographed dancing!

3. Joy to the World - Three Dog Night: Oldie but a goody, this song has the world's best key change. Plus, Joy to the World - good message. Joy to everyone!

2. I Just Had Sex - Lonely Island (from SNL): Crass as it is, this song is the perfect edition to your workout mix. First - it will make you smile. When this songs comes on, you can't take yourself to seriously. Second - it is a hilarious song to listen to over headphones while running in public, because no one you pass has any idea! The jubilant nature of the song, along with the final key change into the chorus (everybody sing!) will help you pick up your pace and perhaps make you want to throw in a fist pump or two.

1. Paper Planes - M.I.A.: This is the BEST running song! The tempo is perfect to make you lengthen your stride and power through. Also, you will totally feel as bad-ass as M.I.A. herself. If I were ever going to make a montage of myself running (which I won't, don't worry), this would be the soundtrack. Just try to refrain from doing the side-ways gunshot motion during the chorus, as it will confuse and possibly frighten those around you.

What are your top workout songs? Apart from Gangnam Style, you'll see my song selections are a little dated - I could use some help entering this decade!

Melaka-laka: A Solo Trip

My awesome husband has been insanely busy, doing just about everything he can think of to improve his trumpet playing, teaching and networking. Most recently, this included a weekend trip to Hong Kong & Macau to meet with and taken lessons from symphony players in those two cities. Next week, he is off to Taiwan for more trumpeting.

With all his jet-setting, I was feeling the need to get out of Singapore as well, so this past weekend I took a quick trip to Melaka. Melaka used to be the premier port of Southeast Asia, a perfect stop off between India and Indonesia, Borneo and the Philippines. Colonized in turns by the Portuguese, Dutch and English, the great port city eventually lost its star status as other port cities - Singapore, for one - grew in importance.

Melaka is just a 3-4 hour, $20 bus ride from Singapore, making it an easy and popular getaway. I left early Saturday morning and by 1 pm, I was arriving at Melaka Sentral, the main transport hub. It was pretty exciting, and a little nerve wracking, to be heading off alone, even though I wasn't going that far. I was worried I would miss Jacob's helpful Malay skills, but found I got by with English just fine, thanks to the friendly people and Melaka's emphasis on being a tourist destination (dual-language signs, maps, etc.).

I got a bite to eat at the station (Wan Tan Mee), purchased my return ticket to Singapore for the next day (cheaper to buy it there - half the price of the Singapore-Melaka ticket!), and got a cab to my hotel - the Syaz Meridien. Perfectly serviceable - clean, free wi-fi, carried BBC and HBO (Game of Thrones baby!!). After repacking just the necessities into a smaller backpack, I hit the town - right in the heat of the day.
Walking along the river, you can find evidence of Melaka's past - this water wheel and the main fort that controlled the river. Hard for me to imagine that one rather dinky fort could keep the port under control, but I guess it worked!




It was really nice to be right on the ocean (right next to my hotel) - there was a nice breeze and it was lovely along the river.

 The tourists were out in full force - these ladies were having a great time taking a million pictures and shopping. I was digging their hats and that one lady's polka dot pants. Wow, right? 

 I was also digging this little monument in the middle of the main roundabout - those little white creatures are White Deer Mice and legend has it that they played a major role in the naming and founding of the city. But frankly, they were pretty dorky. The flags and signs are for political parties - elections are approaching in early May, and party signs and flags were plastered EVERYWHERE!

Melaka has the most pimped-out pedicabs I've ever seen. Not only were the covered in bright fake flowers, many of them had crazy loud sound systems blasting beats, and they're tricked out with lights at night. Awesome.

 I went to the Stadthuys, a complex composed of the former residence of the governor, three museums, and this old English church perched on the top of the hill. 











I did check out the museums - was surprised and amused to find them almost completely empty. I was the only person in the governor's residence (like, no staff, no anyone). There was a whole floor displaying random gifts the governor had received. This one was my favorite!

What is going on?

 In the History of Literature Museum, I found Malaysian Johnny Depp! Looking good!

 Also, found these weird tapestries hanging on the walls. There weren't any English explanations, so I was at a total loss - no idea. Just enjoy (?) the weirdness.

Upon leaving the museums, I swore the first person I saw selling ice cream was going to get my money. This triple-scooper consisted of chocolate, yellow and purple. Can't say what the flavors were, but it was ice cream, so, you know, it was great.

Meandered over to China Town, and up the main drag, called Jonker Street. This is a picture of a truck driving around with a loud speaker, encouraging people to vote for the opposition party.












 In Jonker Street Park, there is a statue of this guy - Dr. Gan Boon Leong, who is credited as the father of body building in Malaysia. Arnold's got nothing on him - plus check out that cute smile!

My dinner consisted of street food bought here and there. This is my dim sum and sugar cane juice. I was hoping for a variety of dim sum flavors and types, but ended up with pork, pork, and more pork. Oh well! I also slurped down a coffee at the Geographer's Cafe and had not one but two durian puffs from 'One Bite Durian Puff,' where the seller reminded me at least three times that you should eat the whole puff in one bite. Once I tried it, I understood - if you attempted multiple bites, you'd end up with durian cream all over.

Um, my 'selfy' photo skills stink, but you get the idea.

 An old Chinese temple near Jonker St., very neat and intricate. (Didn't take too many pics though).
I got a glutinous rice dumpling (I don't know how something called 'glutinous' can sell so well, but you see it all over Singapore too!) I can't tell you why it is blue, but it was very tasty. And filling - I think half of it ended up in the bin.

Several stands were selling the candy that this man is chipping apart. It is made in the big metal pans and is then you use a hammer and pick to break it into smaller parts. I got some - very very sweet. Yowza.

This gentleman is Ho Eng Hui, a famous fixture of Jonker Street. He holds the world record for being able to pierce a coconut with his finger. He puts on quite a show - and quite a sales pitch too, touting this serum stuff that is supposed to heal you and make you strong...yeah, not sure about that. But after making us wait half an hour and selling several bottle, he got around to the main event. And I have to say, I was impressed. He really does pierce the hull of a coconut in like 3 stabs - with his finger. Here is a video of him doing just that - though I will say, I didn't take it, and also when I was there he didn't stand on teapots.

I took a pedicab back to my hotel - but first the driver let me climb aboard for a picture. (He apologized, but I could not drive it because you have to have a special license. Alas!)

The next morning, I got up and checked out, ready for the part of my trip I was looking forward to most - a bike tour through the palm oil and rubber plantations! A Malay man named Alias runs Melaka on Bike, which offers 3 hour bike tours most days. He picked me up at my hotel, along with an Australian couple, and drove us about 20 minutes of the the city to his place, were they keep all the gear. There were 8 of us on the tour, along with Alias and his assistant (who road at the back and basically just made sure no one got lost or hurt).

Latex flowing of of the freshly cut
groove in the tree and into the little
collecting bucket.

We got kitted out with bikes - and I DID choose to wear a helmet, Mom! (My thought process went along the lines of, 'oh man if I fall off and crack my head open, I'm going to be in so much trouble!). We took off and within minutes, I had no idea where I was, but I was having a great time riding through the countryside with total strangers on a beautiful, blessedly overcast day in Malaysia. We stopped frequently so that Alias could tell us about various plants, etc. We got to see how to tap rubber trees (Alias called them nature's ATMs - there's always money in the rubber trees!); how the local people harvest palm oil fruits (it looked exhausting); and how growers will cover jack fruits in scarves or skirts to keep them protected from bugs and birds while they're growing.

 

Alias explaining something about those plants...

The tour was really quite long, and we got to see a lot of rural houses and life happening - including lots of friendly waving kids! We finished the trip just as it began to rain - and just as I was beginning to wonder if my hands and bum could handle much more bumpy biking! So it was good timing all around.

Biking through the palm oil groves

The hilarious sticker on the side of the
Melaka on Bike bus!

Final meal of curry and Carlsburg.

Alias drove a group of us back in to town and dropped me at the main square. I headed back into Chinatown for more wandering and then a meal at the Geographer Cafe (again). I bummed around until it was time to head to the bus station. A friendly pedicab driver told me I could get on this city bus to the station - failing to tell me it would take an hour! There were several long minutes of confusion and slight panic for me, as I tried to figure out if I needed to bail and catch a cab, or if I could make it to the station for my 4pm bus. Fortunately, we made it with 15 minutes to spare - just enough time to pay and stand in line to use the squat toilets (dude - I was really missing Singapore's toilets...the whole hole in the floor thing takes a preferred level of coordination that I have not yet acquired!)
The bus ride back was slightly trying - I had forgotten my plug adapter so my phone had died, leaving me to enjoy the 4-hour nonstop chattering of the 5 year old Chinese boy in the seat behind me. But we bounced down the highway, through the checkpoints and back to Singapore and I made my way home.

Good weekend! And kind of cool to realize that I could navigate my way around solo - certainly not something I would have expected I could do 5 years ago!