Monday, June 10, 2013

Beautiful Bali (Part 2)

Now back to this vacation, already in process...

Ubud, Friday

We stayed at the lovely Alas Petulu Cottages in a two-story villa (for an incredible $80 a night for all of us - including breakfast!). The hotel was only 5 minutes from the main road and I don't think I saw a single other hotel guest. In addition, the hotel would arrange for free transport within the town - such service!
Breakfast on our porch - fruit, eggs, toast, tea & coffee.
View from our porch.
Swimming pool - upper level
Our 'villa'
Swimming pool, lower level. The boys may or may not
have jumped from one to the other...


Our room and balcony



Alters/shrines at our hotel - it is family owned and in the evening we saw
a woman taking offerings and incense to each shrine.


Doorways seemed very important in Bali - most homes had some
sort of ornate entry way, and I never grew tired of
driving past them in all their variety.
On Friday we went whitewater rafting down the Ayu River with our guide, Madi. First, we took an hour drive to get there on increasingly disconcerting roads - but through some really beautiful scenery!





Our rafting started with a long downhill climb to reach the river - maybe the most nerve-wracking part!



Fashionable AND functional...
None of us had ever rafted before, but fortunately our guide was skilled enough that we didn't have to do much - paddle sometimes, but mostly just grab the ropes when he told us to! Occasionally he'd grab onto Anna's or my life jackets while we were going over the rapid - and I didn't know whether to be comforted because he was making sure I wouldn't fall out or worried because he thought there was a chance I might fall! It was a really lovely trip down the river, with plenty of time to gaze around in awe.
Halfway through we stopped off at a refreshment spot - Anna & Erich split a coconut, and Jacob and I indulged in some (pricey!) Bintang...because when are we going to sit and drink a cold beer in a river valley in the middle of Bali again?



As we neared the end of the trip, past the final rapids, Madi said we could jump out and swim, so Jacob and I took the plunge. It was the most incredible lazy river I've been in! The water was so swift and since we had life jackets, we just floated along on our backs in the glorious sunshine. Amazing.
After rafting and lunch at the finish station (and another long climb, this time up from the river), we got dropped off at the Sacred Monkey Forest. Guess what we saw?!




If you can't see, that baby monkey is
climbing the up the other
monkey's tail like a rope!



MONKEYS!




















Sacred Monkey Forest Temple
Monkey on my back!!




The monkey tried to take Anna's water bottle - and then succeeded in pulling Jacob's earring out! Really, Jacob has the worst luck with monkeys - I can't believe he goes anywhere near them anymore! Fortunately no harm was done, and monkey dropped the earring in favor of some pieces of coconut.


We hiked our way up from the Monkey Forest back into Ubud - quite a trek (looked shorter on the map!). Fortunately as we were about to give out, we arrived at Gelato Secrets and revived ourselves - enough to make it to Ibu Oka, a restaurant famous for its suckling pig! We ordered two servings of just the pork - and then ordered one more! Hey, it's a vacation!  
I really like all the activity going on in the painting,
and all the detailed work. He also had much larger
paintings with perhaps hundreds of character in them.
We headed back to the hotel to relax, swim and nap - and on the way Jacob and I got sidetracked by a small shop selling paintings. We ended up buying a really beautiful painting of the Barong & Kris story, and even got to meet the artist, Nyoman. We even got to see a bit of his studio - which we suspect was also where they lived. I was torn between amazement at his work and skill and sadness over the mean conditions in which he and his wife lived and worked. I hope they will continue to get many interested customers and much appreciation for his work.
For dinner we went to the Dirty Duck (Bebek Bengil in Indonesian) and ate deep fried duck and a chicken salad served in a pineapple, while sitting on pillows around the low table in a lovely secluded gazebo - sweet!




Where: Sanur
What: Relaxation
Accommodations: Puri Santrian Beach Club

Saturday morning we packed up bright and early to be ready for our 7:30am ride to Penang Bai for a morning of scuba & snorkeling. It was a bit of a long ride to get there, but such a beautiful day for it. We dove out of a company called WaterWorxx, and they were really great - were all ready with our gear and were friendly and professional (all reassuring things when you're going diving!)



Never been out in an outrigger boat like this before!


Rocking the wetsuits - glad they were full suits with boots too, because the water was cold!


Heading out to Blue Lagoon - a short ride from the shore.



Jacob and I had a great time diving - after a bit of a disconcerting dive in Phuket, it was great to have a calm, clear environment to dive in. We had our own personal dive guide and hardly saw any other divers, so it was mostly just the 3 of us. The coolest past was seeing a white tipped shark, who hovered nearby for a moment before slowly swimming off, giving us plenty of time to watch him. We also saw some funny looking eels, a large ray, and a myriad of other fish in all sorts of neon colors. While we dove, Anna & Erich snorkeled in a nearby area and saw lots of bright fish and coral too.


The travelers


Little brothers never change.
We then got a ride to our hotel in Sanur, a sleepier part of Bali on the east side known for its beautiful beaches and luxury hotels. We stayed at Puri Santrian, which was awesome and really reasonably priced for a 4-star beach resort! We got in a little pool time, then enjoyed happy hour cocktails on the beach.



We went to The Tropical for dinner, where Erich & Anna split an epic seafood platter. We finished off with a belated birthday celebration with a fruit platter - Happy Birthday!







View from our balcony - that's the private, no kids allowed Santrian Club pool - oooooh. Now, I like kids, but that was kind of awesome.
Our room
The balcony :)
Our final day in Bali was all about relaxation. We slept in, hung out by the beach and the private pool, read and napped. We ate lunch at a nearby cafe, then Jacob, Anna & I went for massages - at a small spa located in the back room of a convenience store? Sounds sketchier than it was though, and the massages were quite enjoyable. And much more affordable than the ones offered at the spa at our hotel! It rained in the afternoon, so it was a bit cooler by the time we got to Happy Hour, but that did not deter us from the swim-up pool bar!
Happy Hour = Happy Anna
Had the place to ourselves!
We finished our trip with dinner at the Cat & Fiddle - a nearby Irish Pub, complete with an Irish Folk band, the Leprechauns! And considering this band was composed entirely of musicians of southeast Asian heritage, we were pretty impressed by their rendition of Danny Boy and other Irish classics. (Full disclosure: we requested Danny Boy. Fuller disclosure: Anna requested Danny Boy.)

Monday morning came too soon, as did our 4am pick-up by Ketut, but we made our way to the airport and back to Singapore - and in my case, directly to work! Worth it though, for such a fantastic trip! I'm already trying to figure out when we can make our way back to Bali - I understand why so many people go back to Bali again and again. I don't think you grow tired of it easily!

Fortunately, the end of our vacation was not the end of our visit with Anna & Erich, who were able to spend another week with us in Singapore...

Sunday, June 9, 2013

Beautiful Bali (Part 1)

May must have been busy, I hardly blogged at all! But I'm ready to get back at it.

I can't make a great argument for us needing a vacation, but for all of last month, Jacob and I were so excited for our upcoming trip to Bali - mostly because it meant a visit from Jacob's sister Anna and her husband, Erich. Having visitors is wonderful, especially when it is family!

Anna & Erich came to Singapore, via a few days in Japan (ask them about Robot Restaurant!) on May 21. The 4 of us left for Bali that same evening, taking advantage of the Buddhist holiday on that Friday to sneak in a 5 day vacation!

We broke up our trip into three locations, wanting to sample as much of Bali as possible.

Where: Seminyak
What: Beach Party All the Time!
Accommodations: Umadasa Hotel

Pool time!
We began in Seminyak, just a bit north of Bali's infamous beach/club scene, Kuta. Our small guesthouse, consisting of just 5 rooms and a small pool and garden, was tucked back in an alley off a main road just a few minutes from the beach. We began our (Wednesday) morning with breakfast and a swim, before heading to the beach. 
Our guesthouse.



For a few bucks (thanks to Jacob's Malay and bartering skills), we rented loungers and umbrellas for a few hours - and when we grew thirsty, we added in a few Bintang beers as well!
Let's go to the beach, beach, let's go to the beach...
Some of us hold our alcohol better than others...
Happy place: on a beach, drinking a beer and
reading Neil Gaiman short stories

We ate lunch at a small cafe (thanks Lonely Planet) that served a variety of Indonesian food - and milkshakes. Then more pool time before we dressed up and walked (a long ways) to Kuta. We had dinner while watching rain roll in over the ocean, and then walked through Kuta, trying to figure out where the famed nightlife was. Unfortunately, Anna wasn't feeling well so she had to call it a night early, but the rest of us eventually found our way to the Sky Garden club, followed by more dancing at Bounty. It was a fun scene, but not as hopping as we expected - but it was a Wednesday night after all!
How to party.
How not to party.
Where: Ubud
What: Food, Art, Monkeys, Food, Adventure, Food
Accommodations: Alas Petulu Cottages

On Thursday we were picked up by Ketut, an Indonesian tour guide/driver recommended to us by some of my work colleagues. He spent the day driving us to various spots and showing us around Bali. While most of the places we went catered mainly to tourists (which we were), all the driving around let us see a lot of regular Balinese life. And rice. And the temples - Bali is called the Island of the Gods, and I can see why! 


The Barong, a tiger-like creature, represents good spirit.
We began the morning by seeing a dance performance of the Barong & Kris story - a story about the opposing forces of good and evil. It was really interesting to compare the dance styles to what we had seen in Java - similar, but different! The gamelan music was much quicker and the dancing had more exaggerated moves. Facial expressions were more important in the Barong & Kris dance, and also the dancers did this movement with their fingers that I can hardly describe - they sort of wiggled them back and forth laterally, and really quickly too. There was also much fighting using tufts of grass, and some hilarious interludes with lewd jokes. The costumes, as you can see, were amazing!



The art gallery was set up in a huge old Balinese house.

















Ketut also took us to a batik/textile craft shop where we could see people creating batiks (and shop among hundreds of beautiful batik pieces), a silver-smithing shop, and a huge gallery of paintings. After we'd gotten a bit of the shopping bug out of our system, he drove us up to the top of a volcano (to be honest, I'm not sure which one). Unfortunately, it was by then cloudy and raining, but we stilled enjoyed an Indonesian buffet while overlooking a mysterious, mist-shrouded volcano. Also, I actually got cold - outside! I was so excited.


The Balinese, who are mostly Hindu, set out small offerings of flowers and small treats all over (sometimes you pass them just sitting on the sidewalk or placed next to entryways.)


View from lunch on the volcano - kind of spooky!
Indonesian buffet atop the volcano.
After lunch, we drove down from the volcano and stopped at a coffee and spice plantation. Here we got to see coffee in its raw form, and how it is roasted and ground. They also have Luwak Coffee (the civit cat poop coffee), which we all tried a taste of. Jacob also tried the Peaberry Coffee, which is made exclusively from the 'male' coffee beans. In addition, we got to try Balinese coffee, their blend of mocha, ginseng coffee, cocoa, ginger tea and lemon grass tea. I would have taken a box of each - so good!


Coffee cherries, beans, and the roasting pan.



Anna got a sweet cat phone-case, complete with a tail!
The best part of waking up is
civit poop in your cup!



Rice paddies!
Near the end of our tour, we stopped off to see these rice paddy terraces - so cool. It looks so labor-intensive, but it must be worth the effort for the crop production.





After a long day of driving, Ketut dropped us off at our hotel in Ubud and while Anna & Erich set off for Mozaic, a very fancy (and delicious) restaurant in Ubud, Ketut took Jacob and I to see one more cultural dance - the Kecak Monkey Chant Dance. Instead of being accompanied by instruments, the dancing was accompanied by a choir of about 40 men who created very interesting and evolving rhythms with various sounds (mostly 'chuk chuk chuk') - it was like Balinese beat boxing. The dance told the story of the Ramayana, which we were familiar with from our time in Java. 


Jacob and I finished off our evening at the Jazz Cafe in Ubud, lounging on pillows, eating pizza and drinking Bintang while a Indonesian jazz piano player performed with her combo - good times!



That's probably enough for one post - I'll finish the rest of our Bali trip in a bit...